Quality Control II

In an earlier post I explained how to tell if a garment is well-made and quality.

Of course, this doesn't do much good if you buy it too big or too small, or if the garment just generally doesn't fit.
So here's a few general guidelines.

Pants

- The crotch shouldn't pull across the hips (it's too small), or gather and sag (it's too big).
- I should not be able to see your butt crack. I repeat. I SHOULD NOT SEE YOUR BUTT. Yes, even when sitting down. That's what a high rise is for.
- It should skim over your body, so you can see the shape of your butt in the back. If the fabric drops straight from your hips to the ground without "cupping" under your butt, it's too big (this is true for pencil skirts too). But it shouldn't be so tight that you get "uni-butt" (close cousin of uni-boob).
- You should be able to fit a finger or two into the waist band. Muffin top is never a flattering look. But if you can fit any more fingers, it's too big.
-The hem should skim the ground, whether you are wearing flats or heels.
-If it is a cropped pant, it should hit just above the ankle bone (at the skinny part of your ankle) or just beneath your calf muscle (point your toe, see that calf muscle on the inside of your leg? Right under that).

Jackets and Tops

-The shoulder seam should hit just at the rotation point of your shoulder. Hold your arm straight up, above your head. The rotation point is the crook of the "L" shape you just made.
- Chest darts should be at the center of the breast. Peplums or pleating should be below the natural waist line. Princess seams should mimic your curves. In general, all seams should lie straight without pulling.
- Button or zip it all the way up. If there's any wrinkling or pulling, it's too small. If there's fabric bunching under your armpits, or if anything fitted is not lying close to the body, it's too big.
- Sleeve hems should hit just past the wrist bone. If you fold your fingers to your palm and your fingers can just touch the sleeve, it's a good fit.
- The collar should lie flat, without pulling or gaping at the neck.

Skirts

-You should be able to fit one or two fingers in the waist band, same as with pants.
- Skirts should fall at one of five places.
Mini skirt: Do the finger tip test. With your arms down straight at your sides, is your hem longer or the same length as your finger tips? No? You're wearing a shirt by accident.
Short skirt: A few inches above the knee. Basically higher than the knee cap, but below the quadriceps (thigh muscle).
Knee length skirt: Just below the knee cap, but before the calf muscle. The idea for both this and the short skirt is for the line of the hem to cut you off at your thinnest point above and below your knee.
Tea length skirt: Right above the ankle bone
Floor Length: Just brushing the ground.
- In general, I always suggest that you wear a skirt at your natural waist. Again, you want the line to cut you off at your smallest point.
- If it is a straight or pencil skirt, make sure that you can see the skirt "cup" your butt. If it falls just straight it is too big. Disregard this for a-line, tiered, or full skirts.

Bras
....
I'm not qualified at all to give advice. Go get a bra fitting.

General Guidelines

-No pulling, stretching, or muffin tops.
-No gaping, excess fabric, bunching, or "tenting".
-All hems and bands should hit at thin points. Such as your waist line, after the wrist bone, before the ankle bone, in between muscles groups and your knee cap, ect.
-Sit, stand, jump and stretch in it. If you feel constricted or uncomfortable, it doesn't fit.

Photo thanks t Marco D